January 1 Creel to Chihuahua to La Frontera

Because of the late-night fiesta and ear-ringing hangovers from the booming fireworks, we didn't wake up in time to catch the northbound train leaving at noon. We stocked up on topo maps and trinkets in the Mission Store. This was the day for Mexican citizens to exchange their old Pesos for Nuevo Pesos, but we didn't see anyone lining up at the bank to give a full accounting of their income. Some locals were eager to trade Dolares that they had acquired from other turistas for our Nuevo Pesos. The second class train left Creel about 4:30pm. It was so slow I felt I could walk to Chihuahua faster, but it cost only $3.00 U.S. We arrived in Chihuahua around 11:30pm, loaded with weary travelers, pilgrims, campesinos and an assortment of farm animals picked up at each crossroads on the route. We immediately caught a taxi and made it to the Centro de Autobuses in time to leave on a midnight bus bound for the border. Accordion polkas pierced the night as we crossed the Pancho Villa Bridge and navigated the narrow streets of Aldama, a picturesque village in the midst of the badlands. Hearty people in this rugged terrain defended their homeland when "Blackjack" Pershing chased "Pancho" Villa's ghost across the frontier. Our driver's front window was a shrine dedicated to the Virgen de Guadalupe surrounded by the heroes of La Revolucion. On the long ride, we didn't even notice the slow-moving farm vehicles, sharp mountain curves or frequent checkpoints, but remained alert to the memories of our recent adventures. NEXT PAGE