December 24 South in unknown wilderness (Hike South on the Top)

In the morning light we found poorly-tied ropes holding our tents to the dangerous slope. After thirty minutes of trudging along, we reached the top of the ridge and plush beds of pine needles we could have slept on if we had been on a better course the previous day. We crossed the high ridge and clung to some ancient Indian hand and footholds above a shallow waterfall before moving down into a wide valley with a north-flowing arroyo. Though I suggested following it north to see if it descended toward the west, where we came from, or toward the east to meet the Arroyo Cerro Colorado, we went with the popular vote, to the south. We knew the impressive Barranca de Batopilas could not be missed if we continued south by southeast. By noon, a man in a thatched hut shared stewed gourds with us, while his family worked a field on the high desert plateau. For a few pesos he showed us a path up some jagged rocks. We followed it for a short while, but soon we were unable to continue upward with our heavy packs and we turned back, passing by the hut and wondering if there really was a passage to Batopilas over those hazardous rocks. In my light head the Meat Puppets were singing, "There's nothin' on the top but a bucket and a mop and an illustrated book about birds..." We found our way back to the north-flowing arroyo and camped in a narrow ravine. We boiled water to make Thai noodle soup and found ourselves in surprisingly good spirits, with our tents on flat ground near a trickling source of water, but went to sleep sensing some urgency. My four companions talked of returning to Urique, but I knew we would regret the defeat and I lobbied for pressing on to Batopilas. NEXT PAGE