December 28 To Satevo and back

After invigorating showers, the water temperature being exactly the same as the river, we hiked several miles down the Rio Batopilas on a crude road. Our destination was the Mission Satevo, which some adventurers call the "Lost Cathedral," a mysterious religious outpost believed to have been built between 1627 and 1750. The lack of records, and seemingly little knowledge of the mission by colonizing Spaniards, who settled just over the mountains, from where we came, left the impressive structure both abandoned and dilapidated. Like the people of the deep canyons, the mission's character is independent, silent and stranded. Several local families have maintained the spiritual center by charging admission to curious outsiders. Light enters the mission from all sides, but most notably through a gaping crack from the front arched entryway through the vaulted ceiling to the back foundation. As a photographer, there was not enough time to explore this puzzling place with impatient travelers, who record their pictures quickly in their memories, unconcerned with light. The wounds and injuries the old mission suffered over time inspired images of tremendous, however imaginary, historic events -- gatherings of Indians, processions of miners, fires, floods and earthquakes. I spent the day photographing, searching the back passages and making compass readings to plan a return in another season, as my companions relaxed in the shade of the high walls. With the sun sinking low in the southwest sky, we got a ride in the back of a pickup, heading up the river toward our transitory home, Monse's Casa Bustillos. While bouncing along the severely eroded river road on the open truck bed, we talked with local hitch-hikers who wanted us to compare Houston with Batopilas. I slapped the side of the old Ford and pointed out that there are a lot of trucks in H-town, many caminos and pretty good comida Mexicana, too. We had another good meal at Doña Micha's house and hit the sack early, since we had tickets on the 4:00am bus to Creel. NEXT PAGE